Cartagena

Currency

Use a casa de cambio in Bocagrande rather than the street changers in the walled city, who short-count with practised skill. Dollars are accepted at bad rates. Prices have a lot of zeros — check the note count before you walk away.

ATMs & cards

Bancolombia, Davivienda and BBVA inside a bank branch or a mall, during the day. Avoid street-facing machines at night, which is when card skimming and forced-withdrawal robberies happen. Decline conversion.

Use machines inside a branch or a mall, in daylight. Forced-withdrawal robberies at night-time street ATMs are the specific risk here.

Wherever you are: if the machine offers to charge you in your home currency, decline. That is dynamic currency conversion and the rate is set by the ATM's operator, not your bank.

Safety

The walled city and Getsemaní are patrolled and comfortable by day and evening. Beyond them, and after dark, take a car rather than walk. Persistent street selling is the daily reality, not a danger — a firm no gracias works. Do not buy drugs, and treat anyone who offers them as a setup.

Our own assessment, not a sourced index.

Entry & visa

Health & emergencies

Required to enter

No vaccinations are required for entry from Europe or North America.

Worth having

• Hepatitis A
• Typhoid
• Tetanus up to date
• Yellow fever if you are going to the Amazon, the Pacific coast or Tayrona — some parks now ask for the certificate
• Rabies for rural or long stays

Getting treated

Private hospitals in Cartagena, Bogotá and Medellín are good and inexpensive by European standards, which is why medical tourism is a real industry here. They expect payment or an insurance guarantee before treating. Public facilities are stretched.

Do not drink the tap water outside Bogotá and Medellín. Dengue is present on the Caribbean coast year-round. Yellow fever vaccination needs 10 days to take effect, so it is not a last-minute item.

Orientation, not medical advice. Entry rules change and what you need depends on your own history and where you have been — check with a travel clinic or your national health service four to six weeks before you go.

Food tip

Street arepas de huevo and fresh fruit from the palenqueras are the real thing. Ceviche in the old city is priced for tourists; walk to Bazurto market if you want it at local prices and can handle the chaos.

Getting around

• Walking — the walled city and Getsemaní are small and best seen on foot
• Uber and inDrive — cheap and safer than flagging a taxi; unmarked cars are normal here
• Taxi — no meters, so agree the fare first or you will be quoted the tourist rate
• Boat to the Rosário Islands — from the Muelle de la Bodeguita, an hour each way
• Airport: Rafael Núñez (CTG) is 15 min from the old town, unusually close

Must-see

Things to do

• Walk the walls at sunset
• Get lost in Getsemaní
• Day trip to Playa Blanca or the Rosários
• Climb Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
• Eat your way through Bazurto market with a guide

Nearby day trips

Say a few words

Spanish (Latin American)

• HelloHolaOH-la
• PleasePor favorpor fa-VOR
• Thank youGraciasGRA-syas
• Yes / NoSí / Nosee / no
• Excuse meDisculpedees-KOOL-peh
• How much is it?¿Cuánto cuesta?KWAN-to KWES-ta
• The bill, pleaseLa cuenta, por favorla KWEN-ta
• Cheers!¡Salud!sa-LOOD

The c and z are said as an s here, not the Spanish "th" — gracias is GRA-syas.

Religion

Catholic

Around 70% Catholic. Semana Santa is a major holiday and Popayán’s processions are UNESCO-listed.

Do's and don'ts

Do

• Greet everyone on entering a small shop or a lift — buenos días to the room, not to one person
• Use usted with people you have just met; it is the respectful default in much of the country
• Accept a tinto, the small black coffee, when offered — it is how conversations start
• Dance when invited, badly if necessary; refusing outright is the odd choice here

Don't

• Do not make cocaine jokes or references to Escobar. It is the single fastest way to insult someone, and Colombians are tired of it
• Do not discuss the armed conflict lightly with people you have just met
• Do not photograph people, especially the palenqueras in Cartagena, without asking and expecting to pay
• Do not flash phones or jewellery in the street — no dar papaya, do not give an opportunity, is a national principle