Hakone Good value
Kuro-tamago — eggs boiled black in the sulphur springs at Owakudani, and the local claim is seven years of life an egg. Ryokan dinners are the meal that matters: kaiseki, in your room, at a fixed hour you agree when you book.
What a visitor's money does in Japan: every guide rated from very cheap to very expensive, cheapest first, then the things that cost travellers money without buying anything — the ATM, the taxi, the SIM.
Japanese Yen (JPY) · 1 USD = 157 JPY · 1 EUR = 180 JPY
Japan is still cash-heavy. Exchange at 7-Eleven ATMs (best rates, available 24/7) or at the airport. Hotels and department stores also exchange.
Avoid: most domestic bank ATMs, which simply reject foreign cards
Use: 7-Eleven (Seven Bank), Japan Post Bank, Lawson, FamilyMart
This is a compatibility problem rather than a fee problem — convenience store machines are the reliable ones and are open late.
A short ride in Tokyo: ¥800–1,800 across town — middling
From the airport: Narita to central Tokyo ¥20,000–25,000 by taxi, against ¥3,000 on the Skyliner
Identical — every app in Japan hails a licensed taxi on the meter.
Kuro-tamago — eggs boiled black in the sulphur springs at Owakudani, and the local claim is seven years of life an egg. Ryokan dinners are the meal that matters: kaiseki, in your room, at a fixed hour you agree when you book.
Cheap doesn’t mean bad. ¥800 ramen shops and conveyor belt sushi (¥100-300/plate) are outstanding. Convenience store (konbini) food is surprisingly excellent.
Kyoto specialises in kaiseki and tofu cuisine. Nishiki Market is good for snacking but touristy. Department store basements (depachika) have superb, affordable prepared food.
The word here is kuidaore — eat until you fall over — and it is the city's own description of itself. Takoyaki, okonomiyaki, kushikatsu in Shinsekai, where the rule about not double-dipping the sauce is enforced by everyone. Kuromon market is for eating, not for shopping.
Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is layered rather than mixed, with noodles inside, and locals will tell you it is the correct version. Oysters from the bay are the other thing, grilled in the shell at Miyajima from November.
Kakinoha-zushi — sushi wrapped in a persimmon leaf, a preserving trick from before refrigeration. Narazuke pickles are an acquired taste and the shops give samples. Mochi pounded at speed at Nakatanidou is a performance and a queue.
Miso ramen was invented here and is heavier and oilier than the Tokyo kind, for good reason. The other things are seafood — uni, scallops, hairy crab — and soup curry, which is a Sapporo invention and appears nowhere else.
Kaga cuisine, and seafood from the Sea of Japan that Tokyo chefs come here to buy. Nodoguro is the fish to order. Gold leaf on ice cream is a gimmick, and the city invented it, so have one anyway.
Not Japanese food as anybody expects it: goya champuru with bitter melon and spam, Okinawa soba with pork belly, and awamori, a rice spirit older than sake. Taco rice is the American base years on a plate and is better than it sounds.
Hida beef is the reason half the visitors come — grilled on a magnolia leaf with miso, or as a skewer eaten in the street. Sake breweries in the old town hang a cedar ball outside and pour tastings for a few hundred yen.
Yuba — tofu skin, lifted off the vat in sheets — is the local speciality and turns up in everything from sashimi to soup. The shrine-town restaurants close early, which catches out anybody planning a late dinner.
The cost rating is this site's own, for a visitor, from the guides' authors and the corrections readers send in. The general rules — the conversion prompt, shoulder season, the airport taxi — are in budget travel tips.