Graubünden food: capuns, Bündnerfleisch — air-dried beef sliced thin — pizzoccheri, and barley soup. The town is a town rather than a resort, so there are ordinary restaurants and supermarkets, which is not true of most places in this guide.
Lucerne Very expensive
Central Switzerland means Chügelipastete, a puff-pastry case of veal and mushrooms, and Älplermagronen — macaroni, potato, cheese and apple sauce, which sounds wrong and is a mountain classic. Lake fish, and Luzerner Lebkuchen for the journey home.
Bernese and hearty rather than refined: rösti with everything, älplermagronen — macaroni, potato, cheese and apple sauce — and meringue with Emmental double cream, which was invented in this canton. Everything on the mountain costs about half as much again as in the village.
Engadine and expensive: capuns, chard leaves rolled round spätzli dough; pizzoccheri from just over the Italian border; nusstorte, the walnut tart every bakery here makes. Pontresina and Samedan down the valley cost noticeably less for the same food.
Verbier Very expensive
Swiss and dear: fondue moitié-moitié, raclette from the Bagnes valley below, which is where raclette comes from, and dépouille sausage. Eating in Le Châble rather than up in the resort is the single biggest saving available here.
Valais food and good: raclette, dried meat, rye bread, and cholera — a pastry pie of potato, apple, cheese and leek with a name from the epidemic year it was invented in. The village restaurants are dear, as everywhere car-free tends to be.
Fondue and raclette are winter food and locals will tell you so, but every restaurant serves them year round to visitors. The better summer plate is rösti with an egg, or perch from the lake. Everything is expensive; a supermarket picnic from Coop is how the Swiss themselves eat on a mountain.
Zermatt Very expensive
Valais is raclette country and the real version is scraped off a half wheel at the table, not poured from a machine. Cholera is a Valais pie of potato, apple and cheese with a strange name and a good filling. Fendant is the white wine, and the mountain huts pour it by the glass.
Zurich Very expensive
Zürcher Geschnetzeltes is veal in cream with rösti, and it is the dish. Luxemburgerli from Sprüngli are small macarons that do not travel. The city has an unexpected number of very good Italian restaurants, and the cheapest decent lunch is the mensa at the ETH, which is open to anyone.