What a visitor's money does in Ethiopia: every guide rated from very cheap to very expensive, cheapest first, then the things that cost travellers money without buying anything — the ATM, the taxi, the SIM.
Good valueaverage across 1 guide · 5 is very cheap
The birr was floated in 2024 and has moved a long way since, so check the rate the week you travel rather than trusting a guidebook. Change at a bank in Addis on the way through — Lalibela has few options and worse rates — and keep the receipt, which you need to change back.
ATMs
Avoid: relying on any machine in town — they are few and often empty or offline
Use: Change cash at a bank in Addis Ababa before you fly up
Bring dollars or euros in cash and keep the exchange receipt, which you need to change birr back on the way out.
Getting around
A short ride in Lalibela: 200–500 birr across town — cheap
From the airport: Addis airport to the centre 500–900 birr
Cheaper than the blue-and-white taxis, which are negotiated.
Injera with a spread of wats — spiced stews eaten with the hands, no cutlery — and Wednesdays and Fridays are fasting days when everything served is vegan, which happens to be when Ethiopian food is at its best. Ethiopian coffee is a ceremony, takes half an hour, and is the correct way to spend it.
The cost rating is this site's own, for a visitor, from the guides' authors and the corrections readers send in. The general rules — the conversion prompt, shoulder season, the airport taxi — are in budget travel tips.