São Paulo
Brazil
Twelve million people, no beach, and the best eating in South America
Photos by Guilherme Madaleno, DAVIDSON L U N A, Joao Tzanno and Lucas Marcomini on Unsplash
Best time to visit all of Brazil
April to September — the dry winter, mild by day and cool at night
Climate month by month
The next sixteen daysOpen-Meteo
Average high and low · °C
Rainfall · mm per month
Best months to visit This month · wettest 288mm in Jan
Where it is
23.55°S, 46.63°W Open in Google Maps
Things to do
Several days- Walk Avenida Paulista on a Sunday, when it is closed to cars
- Go to MASP on a Tuesday, when it is free
- Spend a morning in Ibirapuera and its museums
- Eat your way through the Mercado Municipal before noon, when it is a market rather than a queue
- See the Pinacoteca and the Museu da Língua Portuguesa in Luz, by day
- Go to a Sesc — Sesc Pompeia above all — for the architecture and whatever is on
São Paulo travel tipsthe general rules
Currency budget Brazil
Mid-rangeCards and contactless are taken almost everywhere, down to the pastel stall in the market. Pix, the instant transfer every Brazilian uses, needs a Brazilian bank account, so as a visitor you are on cards and a little cash. Change money in the city rather than at Guarulhos, and decline the conversion when a terminal offers to charge you in your own currency.
ATMs & cards
Use Banco do Brasil, Bradesco, Itaú or Santander machines inside branches, shopping centres, metro-adjacent malls or the airport, in daytime. Avoid standalone kiosks on the street at night. Many machines stop serving foreign cards in the evening as an anti-fraud measure, so a refusal at 22:00 is not your bank.
Avoid these
- street kiosks at night
- Banco24Horas machines outside a building
Use these instead
- Banco do Brasil
- Bradesco
- Itaú
- Santander
Use machines inside branches, shopping centres or the airport, in daylight. Many stop dispensing to foreign cards in the evening.
Wherever you are: if the machine offers to charge you in your home currency, decline. That is dynamic currency conversion and the rate is set by the ATM's operator, not your bank.
Safety all of Brazil
Stay alertThe crime a visitor actually meets is a phone taken out of a hand on the pavement, often by someone on a bicycle or a motorbike — on Paulista, in the centre, at a café table by the kerb. Keep the phone away on the street and step into a shop to use it. Use app cars after dark rather than walking between neighbourhoods, and treat the old centre as a daytime place.
Where to walk, and where to pay attention (9 areas)
Comfortable, including after dark
Worth more attention
- Avenida Paulista — phones are snatched from hands on the pavement, often from a passing bicycle
- Praça da Sé — and the old centre after offices close and at weekends, when the streets empty
- Estação da Luz — go by day for the Pinacoteca and the museums, and leave by metro or car rather than on foot after dark
- Using a phone at a pavement café table, the classic grab
Distances are the thing visitors underestimate: neighbourhoods that look adjacent on the map are an expensive hour apart in traffic, so book near the metro.
Our own assessment, not a sourced index.
Entry & visa Brazil visa rules
No visa neededup to 90 days
Other passports
e-Visa requiredup to 90 days$80
Brazil reintroduced visas for these three nationalities. It is an e-visa applied for online.
Visa required in advance
Entry rules change often and depend on your passport, not where you live — the official page above is the authority, and the airline checks before you board.
Health & emergencies all of Brazil
Good but costlyRequired to enter
- Yellow fever certificate, but only if you are arriving from a country where yellow fever is present
Jabs worth having, and what happens if you need a doctor
Worth having
- Yellow fever — recommended for most of Brazil including the area around Rio
- Hepatitis A
- Typhoid
- Tetanus up to date
Getting treated
Public emergency care (SUS) is free to everyone including foreigners, but is crowded and slow. Private hospitals in Rio and São Paulo are excellent and expect insurance or payment up front.
Dengue, zika and chikungunya are all present and mosquito-borne — repellent matters. Yellow fever vaccination should be given at least 10 days before arrival.
Orientation, not medical advice — entry rules change and what you need depends on your own history. Check with a travel clinic four to six weeks before you go.
Food tip
OutstandingThe largest Japanese, Italian and Lebanese communities in Brazil all cook here, so eat sushi in Liberdade, pizza on a Sunday night like every paulistano, and esfiha anywhere. The mortadella sandwich at the Mercado Municipal is enormous and worth it once. Feijoada is a Wednesday and Saturday dish in São Paulo, and the por-quilo buffets, where you pay by weight, are the cheapest good lunch in the city.
Travel tipsNightlife
One of the great nightlife cities of the world, and almost entirely indoors and late — bars fill at ten and clubs at one.
- Vila Madalena — the bar streets, and samba on the pavement
- Rua Augusta — the lower end, below Paulista, for bars, clubs and the queer scene
- Pinheiros — cocktail bars and the newer restaurants
- Praça Roosevelt — small theatres and bars in the centre
Closing: 05:00 or later at weekends; clubs often run past dawn.
Take an app car home from the door of the bar rather than walking to the main road for one.
Getting around
Easy- UberWorks here
- 99Works here
- inDriveWorks here
- BoltNot here
99 the Brazilian one, often cheaper
- From the airport
- Guarulhos to central São Paulo R$80–130
- Against a taxi
- Cheaper than a taxi and, in the big cities, the default for everybody.
Some favela and periphery addresses will not be accepted by drivers at night; that is a driver safety decision, not a fare one.
Time zone and your working day
America/Sao Paulo — 1 hour ahead of you
7 hours of overlap with a 09:00–17:00 day where you are — 09:00–16:00 your time, 10:00–17:00 theirs.
No overlap with a 09:00–17:00 day where you are. Working from here means one of you keeps odd hours — their day starts at 08:00 on your clock.
office hours both at once night
Their 09:00–17:00 is 08:00–16:00 on yours.
The difference from the UK, Europe, the US and ten more
Worked out against America/New York, which is where this request looks like it came from.
eSIM
A data eSIM for Brazil, installed before you fly and working the moment you land:
Works hereWorks hereRevolutIn the app
Must-see
Travel tipsNearby day trips
Travel tipsSay a few words
Portuguese (Brazilian)
- HelloOi / Oláoy / o-LA
- PleasePor favorpor fa-VOR
- Thank youObrigado / Obrigadao-bree-GA-doo / -da
- Yes / NoSim / Nãoseeng / nowng
4 more phrases
- Excuse meCom licençakong lee-SEN-sa
- How much is it?Quanto custa?KWAN-too KOOS-ta
- The bill, pleaseA conta, por favora KON-ta
- Cheers!Saúde!sa-OO-djee
Softer and more open than European Portuguese, and the de sounds like "dje".
Travel tipsReligion
Catholic and Evangelical
The largest Catholic population in the world, with a fast-growing Evangelical share and Afro-Brazilian traditions such as Candomblé and Umbanda practised alongside.
Travel tipsDo's and don'ts
Do
- Greet with a kiss on each cheek between women, or a woman and a man; a handshake between men
- Expect physical closeness in conversation — standing back reads as cold
- Arrive late to social invitations; on time is genuinely early
- Learn a few words of Portuguese, and never open in Spanish
Don't
- Do not make the OK sign with finger and thumb — it is obscene here
- Do not walk with a phone visible in the street
- Do not wear obvious jewellery or watches on the beach or in the city
- Do not call Brazilians Hispanic or assume they speak Spanish
Where to stay in São Paulo
No Holistay rentals in São Paulo yet — the platform is just opening up. Every listing here will have a video tour and the option to negotiate the nightly price directly with the host.
In the meantime, here is São Paulo on the sites that do have the inventory — each search is already filled in:
- Booking.com hotels, guesthouses and apartments — the widest coverage almost everywhere
- Airbnb whole homes and apartments, and the better option for a week or more
How to get there
Fly into Guarulhos GRU
1hfrom the airport· 21 km as the crow flies
About an hour by car to Avenida Paulista, ninety minutes at rush hour.
Also worth pricing: Congonhas CGH — domestic only, and twenty minutes from Paulista; the better airport for anywhere else in Brazil.
Google Flights · Rome2Rio for the trains, buses and ferries as well as the flights