2 guides, each rated 1 to 5 with the reason — and two lists per place, where you are comfortable and where to pay attention. Nowhere is called dangerous; the specific thing is what helps.
The road is the danger, not the people: altitude over 4,000 m for days, landslides, a border with Afghanistan that is quiet but real, and a GBAO permit that the checkpoints ask for. Go with a driver who has done it, acclimatise in Khorog, and carry the medicine for altitude. The Pamiri hospitality is total.
Comfortable: Khorog · the Wakhan villages
the passes over 4,000 m — altitude sickness; acclimatise at Khorog and carry the medicine
the road itself — landslides, no barriers and a driver who has to know it
the checkpoints — the GBAO permit, in the passport, every time
Comfortable, quiet and heavily policed. Photograph nothing official and keep the passport handy for checks, which are polite and frequent. Taxi overcharging off the app. The country beyond the capital is mountains, and the mountains are where the care goes.
Comfortable: Rudaki avenue · the centre
a camera near anything official — the police object, and the passport check follows
taxis off the app — overcharging
The ratings are this site's own, from the guides' authors and the corrections readers send in; they are not an index. Read the general advice in travel safety tips.
