Sea stacks off the coast at Braewick under a grey sky — Shetland, United Kingdom

Shetland

United Kingdom

A hundred islands nearer Bergen than Edinburgh, with cliffs, puffins and long winter nights

Photo by Gavin Allanwood on Unsplash

Lerwick in the snow — Shetland, United KingdomThe Lodberrie, a stone house built out into the harbour at Lerwick — Shetland, United KingdomA lighthouse on a rocky outcrop — Shetland, United KingdomTwo puffins on a cliff ledge — Shetland, United Kingdom

Photos by ella peebles, Simon Hurry, Hamish Duncan and Joe deSousa on Unsplash

Want to go?Put Shetland on your bucket list.
Getting aroundLimited
Things to doA week easily
FoodGood
PricesExpensive
SafetyVery safe

Best time to visit all of United Kingdom

May to August for the puffins and the simmer dim, and January for Up Helly Aa and a chance of the aurora

Climate month by month

Average high and low · °C

6°
1°Jan
6°
1°Feb
7°
2°Mar
8°
3°Apr
11°
5°May
13°
8°Jun
15°
10°Jul
15°
10°Aug
13°
9°Sep
Now10°
6°Oct
8°
4°Nov
6°
2°Dec

Rainfall · mm per month

135
Jan
105
Feb
115
Mar
75
Apr
55
May
60
Jun
65
Jul
85
Aug
110
Sep
135
Oct
145
Nov
150
Dec

Best months to visit This month · wettest 150mm in Dec

Where it is

60.15°N, 1.15°W Open in Google Maps

Things to do

A week easily
  • Watch the puffins at Sumburgh Head on your first or last day, by the airport
  • Book Up Helly Aa accommodation months ahead, or go to one of the smaller district fire festivals later in the winter
  • Take the boat to Mousa on a summer night for the storm petrels
  • Drive to Unst, via two ferries, for Hermaness and the view to Muckle Flugga
  • Look north on clear winter nights, away from Lerwick’s lights, and do not count on it

Shetland travel tipsthe general rules

Currency budget United Kingdom

Expensive
Local currencyBritish Pound (GBP)
Exchange rate1 GBP = 1.17 EUR1 GBP = 1.32 USD

Pound sterling, and contactless everywhere in Lerwick and in most of the shops and cafés beyond it. Keep a few coins for honesty boxes at the roadside and the odd community hall.

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Travel tips

ATMs & cards

The bank machines are in Lerwick, with a few in shops in the larger villages. Draw what little cash you want in Lerwick before heading north to Yell and Unst.

Avoid these

  • shop machines that charge, outside Lerwick

Use these instead

  • the bank machines in Lerwick

Cards work almost everywhere; draw any cash in Lerwick before heading to the northern isles.

Wherever you are: if the machine offers to charge you in your home currency, decline. That is dynamic currency conversion and the rate is set by the ATM's operator, not your bank.

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Safety all of United Kingdom

Very safe

Crime is close to nil. The wind is the hazard: winter gales are routine, ferries and flights are cancelled for weather, and cliff edges at Eshaness and Sumburgh Head have no fences. Allow a day either side of your connections. The aurora — the mirrie dancers — is seen here on active nights, low on the northern horizon and often behind cloud; it is a bonus, not a reason to come for a weekend.

Where to walk, and where to pay attention (8 areas)

Comfortable, including after dark

Worth more attention

  • Eshaness — unfenced cliff edges and wind strong enough to move you
  • St Ninian’s Isle — the sand tombolo is safe on foot, but heavy seas wash over it in a storm
  • Single-track roads, where passing places are for passing and for letting the car behind you by
  • Ferry and flight cancellations in winter gales — leave a spare day at each end

Our own assessment, not a sourced index.

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Entry & visa United Kingdom visa rules

Travel authorisation requiredup to 180 days£16

An Electronic Travel Authorisation is required before travel — it is not a visa, but you will not board without it. Valid two years or until the passport expires.

Other passports

Visa required in advancefrom £115

A Standard Visitor visa applied for online before travel.

How to get it: Apply for the ETA through the official UK ETA app or the gov.uk page. It usually comes back within minutes but can take up to three working days.

Official government source · checked 2026-08-09

Entry rules change often and depend on your passport, not where you live — the official page above is the authority, and the airline checks before you board.

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Before you fly: travel authorisation

UK Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA)Required£20

Before you fly. Most come back within minutes, some take three working days.

Have these in front of you before you start:

  • passport
  • a passport photo

Valid for two years or until the passport expires, whichever comes first — it is not per trip.

Fill it in on the official site · checked 2026-09-11

Use the official link above. Sites that charge a "service fee" to submit one of these for you are not the government, and they want the same passport details the real form does.

Travel tips

Health & emergencies all of United Kingdom

Excellent and cheap
Emergency number999 or 112

Required to enter

No vaccinations are required for entry from Europe or North America.

Jabs worth having, and what happens if you need a doctor

Worth having

  • Routine vaccinations up to date

Getting treated

Emergency treatment in A&E is free to everyone regardless of nationality. Follow-up care, admission and repatriation are not, so insurance still matters. Pharmacists can treat many minor problems without an appointment.

Orientation, not medical advice — entry rules change and what you need depends on your own history. Check with a travel clinic four to six weeks before you go.

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Food tip

Good

Shetland lamb, rope-grown mussels and salmon from the voes, and reestit mutton soup in winter. Restaurants are few outside Lerwick and some keep short hours, so book dinner and carry lunch when you head north.

Travel tips

Getting around

Limited
Ride-hailing
  • UberWorks here
  • BoltWorks here
  • FREE NOWWorks here

FREE NOW black cabs and private hire in one app

Pricey£8–14 across town
Against a taxi
A black cab is metered and costs more; the apps are cheaper everywhere except short central hops.

Outside the cities the coverage thins quickly — in a small town the local minicab firm on the telephone is still the answer.

  • Hire car — the islands are long and the buses run to commuter hours; book it before you land
  • Ferry — NorthLink overnight from Aberdeen to Lerwick, about twelve hours with a cabin, and some sailings call at Kirkwall
  • Ferry — the council’s inter-island ferries to Yell, Unst and the smaller islands, short and frequent, and worth booking for a car in summer
  • Bus — routes from Lerwick to most of the Mainland, including the airport
  • Airport: Sumburgh (LSI), at the southern tip, about 40 minutes from Lerwick
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Travel tips

Time zone and your working day

13:59Friday in Shetland
Offices open

Europe/London — 5 hours ahead of you

3 hours of overlap with a 09:00–17:00 day where you are — 09:00–12:00 your time, 14:00–17:00 theirs.

No overlap with a 09:00–17:00 day where you are. Working from here means one of you keeps odd hours — their day starts at 04:00 on your clock.

Shetland
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You
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office hours both at once night

Their 09:00–17:00 is 04:00–12:00 on yours.

The difference from the UK, Europe, the US and ten more

Worked out against America/New York, which is where this request looks like it came from.

Internet speedall of United Kingdom

Home broadband184 Mbpsmedian download in United Kingdom as a whole0world median 130300+Fast61 Mbps upload · 11 ms latency
Mobile data75 Mbpsmedian download in United Kingdom as a whole0world median 109300+Fair9 Mbps upload · 31 ms latency
Why these are United Kingdom's numbers and not Shetland's

Home broadband — Fast. Several people on calls at once, large uploads, 4K. Broadband here runs at 1.4× the global median of 130 Mbps.

Mobile data — Fair. Maps, calls and streaming; tethering a laptop works for an hour, not a day. Mobile runs at 69% of the global median of 109 Mbps.

Ookla publishes no separate figure for Shetland, so these are medians for all of United Kingdom. Cities usually beat the national number and remote islands and national parks fall well below it — treat this as the country's shape, not as a measurement of the street you will be staying on.

A median is the middle of every connection tested there, old copper and new fibre together — so in a country part-way through laying fibre it sits well below what a fibre line actually delivers, and a rental on one can run several times this number. Half of the connections are slower; a fibre flat is rarely one of them. It says what a place can do, not what your rental does, so every listing on Holistay carries its own measured speed and the date it was tested.

Source: Ookla Speedtest Global Index · measured June 2026

Travel tips

eSIM

A data eSIM for United Kingdom, installed before you fly and working the moment you land:AiraloWorks hereHolaflyWorks hereRevolutIn the app

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Must-see

Puffins at Sumburgh Head, from late spring to high summerUp Helly Aa, the fire festival in Lerwick at the end of JanuaryJarlshof, four thousand years of settlement in one siteMousa Broch, the best-preserved Iron Age tower anywhereThe cliffs at Eshaness and the north end of Unst
Travel tips

Nearby day trips

Scalloway (15min)St Ninian’s Isle (35min)Jarlshof and Sumburgh Head (40min)Mousa (30min and a boat, in summer)Eshaness (1h)Unst (2h with two ferries)
Travel tips

Say a few words

British English — local usage

  • Hello, informallyYou alright?
  • ThanksCheers
  • Yes, definitelyYeah, no worries
  • That is expensiveThat is a bit steep
4 more phrases
  • The bill, pleaseCould we get the bill, please?
  • Sorry (used constantly)Sorry
  • Very goodBrilliant
  • A drink before dinnerA swift half
Travel tips

Religion

Church of England, and largely secular

The Anglican church is established by law with the monarch at its head, while actual attendance is low. Cathedrals often charge entry but are free during services.

Travel tips

Do's and don'ts

Do

  • Queue, properly and without comment — jumping one is the closest thing to a national taboo
  • Say sorry constantly, including when someone else bumps into you
  • Stand on the right on escalators
  • Buy a round if you are drinking in a group, and buy yours in turn

Don't

  • Do not skip your round; it is noticed and remembered
  • Do not ask what someone earns or what their house cost
  • Do not take "we must do this again sometime" as a firm plan
  • Do not expect table service in pubs unless the sign says so — order at the bar
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Where to stay in Shetland

No Holistay rentals in Shetland yet — the platform is just opening up. Every listing here will have a video tour and the option to negotiate the nightly price directly with the host.

In the meantime, here is Shetland on the sites that do have the inventory — each search is already filled in:

  • Booking.com hotels, guesthouses and apartments — the widest coverage almost everywhere
  • Airbnb whole homes and apartments, and the better option for a week or more
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How to get there

Fly into Sumburgh LSI

40 minfrom the airport· 31 km as the crow flies

40 min by road to Lerwick, by bus or hire car.

Also worth pricing: Aberdeen ABZ — most flights connect here, and the overnight ferry to Lerwick leaves from the harbour.

Chicago (CHI) · Guessed from your connection

Google Flights · Rome2Rio for the trains, buses and ferries as well as the flights

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